Diana Vreeland . A Fashion Legend

Eu tinha apenas 1 ano quando Diana Vreeland, ícone de moda e legendária editora da Vogue e da Harper’s Bazaar americanas, morreu com 83 anos em Agosto de 1989, mas o seu legado continua vivo até hoje.

O reinado de Diana no mundo da Moda começou quando a editora-chefe da Harper’s Bazaar, Carmel Snow, a contratou em 1936. Aí nasceu uma longa carreira de 26 anos como editora de moda da revista, algo que mudou a moda para sempre.

 Diana Vreeland on her famous red living room. 

"I wanted this apartment to be a garden - but it had to be a garden in hell."

I was only a year old when Diana Vreeland, fashion icon and legendary fashion editor of American Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, died at 83 in August 1989, but her legacy is very much alive until today.

Diana's reign on the fashion world started when Harper's Bazaar editor-in-chief, Carmel Snow, offered her a job in 1936. Right there it was born a long-lasting 26 year carreer as fashion editor for the magazine, something that changed fashion forever.

Reinventou a profissão de editora de moda, escolhendo as roupas a serem publicadas na revista, trabalhando com as modelos e supervisionando a fotografia.

Ela colaborou com alguns dos melhores fotógrafos de todos os tempos, como Richard Avedon e Louise Dahl-Wolfe, criando editoriais repletos de imaginação, fantasia e cor.
  

No início dos anos 60, Vreeland estava em busca de novos desafios e o seu maior desafio e maior feito surgiu ao tornar-se editora-chefe da Vogue americana.

O seu entusiasmo e personalidade vibrante invadiram a sede da Vogue e tornaram-na na revista de culto que é hoje em dia.

Numa época como a década de 60 em que o ideal de beleza estava a mudar, o "único" era celebrado, em que a cultura se centrava na juventude e no exótico, Diana Vreeland, com a sua mente aberta e visionária, era a pessoa indicada para o trabalho.

Ela redefiniu padrões de beleza e criou tendências, “dando às pessoas o que elas nem sabiam que queriam”.

Durante o seu “mandato” na Vogue, que durou até 1971, publicou alguns dos trabalhos mais revolucionários e inovadores de fotógrafos como David Bailey, Irving Penn e, o acima mencionado, Richad Avedon e ajudou a imortalizar alguns ícones de moda como Twiggy, Marisa Berenson e Cher.

Além dos seus fantásticos editoriais, Vreeland introduziu cultura na revista, com artigos sobre variados temas e ideias, desde literatura a música e interiores, tornando a Vogue uma autoridade em estilo e cultura, um must-read que é até hoje.
 

Após o término do seu trabalho na Vogue, Diana, com 70 anos, tornou-se consultora do Costume Institute do Met Museum de forma a revitalizar o museu. E, assim o fez. Nas galerias do Met, Diana Vreeland mudou a forma como o mundo via a Moda, introduzindo o vestuário como uma peça de arte, tal como a escultura ou a pintura.
 

Diana Vreeland é uma lenda do mundo da moda que jamais será esquecida, com uma história que deve ser contada e recordada. Nesse sentido, surge o documentário "Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel", de Lisa Immordino, que nos apresentará pormenores da vida da icónica editora de moda.

Diana Vreeland at work.

“Style was a standard. Didn’t hurt anyone… But you gotta have style. It helps you get down the stairs. It helps you get up in the morning. It’s a way of life. Without it, you’re nobody. I’m not talking about lots of clothes.”

She redefined the profession of editor, selecting the clothes that would be published, working with models and overseeing the photography.
She worked with some of the best photographers of all times like Richard Avedon and Louise Dahl-Wolfe, creating editorials filled of imagination, fantasy and color.

In the beginning of the 60's, Vreeland was looking for new challenges, and her biggest challenge and deed came when she became editor-in-chief of American Vogue.
Her enthusiasm and vibrant personality invaded Vogue headquarters and made it the cult magazine it is nowadays.
In a time, like the 60's,  when the ideal of beauty was changing, and uniqueness was celebrated, when culture was centered on the youth and the exotic, Mrs Vreeland, with her open and visionary mind, was the best person for the job.
She redefined beauty standards and created trends, "giving people what they never knew they wanted".
During her "mandate" on Vogue, which lasted until 1971, she published some of the most groundbreaking work of photographers like David Bailey, Irving Penn, and the above mentioned, Richard Avedon and helped immortalize some of the biggest fashion icons like Twiggy, Marisa Berenson and Cher.
In addition to her amazing editorials, Vreeland introduced culture to the magazine, with articles about the most varied themes and ideas, from literature to music and interior design, turning Vogue into an authority in style and culture, the must-read magazine it is until now.

After her depart from Vogue, Diana, with 70 years old, became a consultant to the Met Costume Institute with the intent to revitalize the museum. And, so she did it. On the Met galleries, Diana Vreeland changed the way the world saw fashion, introducing garments as pieces of art, just like paintings or sculptures.

Diana Vreeland is a legend on the fashion world who will never be forgotten, with a story worthy of being remembered and told. Therefore, comes the documentary "Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel" by Lisa Immordino, that will present details of the life of this iconic fashion editor.

Richard Avedon, Vogue October 1966    .    Vogue cover, April 1967

                       “Vogue always did stand for people’s lives. I mean, a new dress doesn’t get you anywhere; it’s the life your living in the dress, and the sort of life you had lived before, and what you will do in it later.”   

"Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel" Trailer